Jl. Raya Kelapa Gading Permai Blok D1/1
Kelapa Gading
Jakarta Utara
Tel. 452 4349, 451 8004
Although Ateng will never win a restaurant interiors beauty contest, the food is quite satisfying, if not on the duller end of Kelapa Gading’s high standards. If house specialty mie goreng Kanton is rather coarse (both the crispy noodles and the gravy) and the angsio cah (vegetables in cap cay-like sauce) is a bit non-descript, the crispy-on-the-outside, moist-on-the-inside deep-fried chicken in batter is positively delightful. While the nasi goreng merah (tomato sauce-based fried rice) may be authentic, it doesn’t really do much in upping the gourmet quotient. Try the flavour-packed Hokkien mie instead. And always keep your saucer of garlic-chilli-vinegar side sauce near; Ujung Pandang’s equivalent of Thailand’s nam prik or Menado’s dabu ilang, it does perk everything up.
Flaws aside, anyone familiar with Holland Village in Singapore would find this modest eatery — an inconspicuous residential house that doubles up as a terrazzo-restaurant — rather charming. It would take you no more than two minutes to melt from the heat that emanates from the giant woks in the garden’s open kitchen, but the garlic-kissed air you breathe will remind you why you’re there.
Price range: Around Rp 130,000 for 2
Operating hours: 07:00 – 22:30
Dress code: casual
Atmosphere: residential terrace casual
Cash only
Reviewed: December 2007
Selain menerbitkan seri Jakarta Good Food Guide yang telah memenangi sejumlah penghargaan, Laksmi Pamuntjak telah menghasilkan dua himpunan puisi, Ellipsis (salah satu buku terpilih harian The Herald UK tahun 2005) dan The Anagram; sebuah karya filosofis tentang manusia, kekerasan dan mitologi, Perang, Langit dan Dua Perempuan; dan sebuah kumpulan cerpen tentang lukisan, The Diary of R.S.: Musings on Art.