Redtop Hotel
Jl. Pecenongan Raya
Jakarta Pusat
Tel. 350 0077 ext 550
Don’t be deterred by the name change. It stays every inch the former Wang Palace, right down to the wonderful little known things they do to set their food apart from the multitude: a rich cluster, or overlay, of deep-fried caramelized garlic, shallots and chillies over plump, moist roast chicken (enchanting); deep-fried soon hock fish dotted with bird’s eye chillies and crisp garlic, served with a Thai-style spicy sweet dark vinegar dressing (brilliant); kung pao prawns as good as any you’ll find in top Szechuan restaurants around the world; and XO seafood fried rice to wake the dead for that last heavenly mouthful.
Not that this will necessarily change their fortunes, for there remains the obvious location issue. People would much rather find food at one of the street eateries dotting Jalan Pecenongan. What’s more, the space remains somewhat abnormally large, not unlike a gawky teenager, but all such things pale before the food, and the uncommonly friendly bill you’ll get at the end of your meal.
Price range: Around Rp 170,000 for 2
Operating hours: 08:00 – 14:30 (weekends)
Dress code: casual
Atmosphere: sprawling banquet-style
Alcohol: yes + wine list
All major credit cards accepted
Reviewed: November 2007
Selain menerbitkan seri Jakarta Good Food Guide yang telah memenangi sejumlah penghargaan, Laksmi Pamuntjak telah menghasilkan dua himpunan puisi, Ellipsis (salah satu buku terpilih harian The Herald UK tahun 2005) dan The Anagram; sebuah karya filosofis tentang manusia, kekerasan dan mitologi, Perang, Langit dan Dua Perempuan; dan sebuah kumpulan cerpen tentang lukisan, The Diary of R.S.: Musings on Art.
